Am I going to Georgetown?

I took a night bus from Singapore up the Malaysian peninsular to Penang. There was some confusion about where my final destination would be on the Penang island. Every time I asked, hopefully, "Georgetown?" I would be met with the same reply, "Yes, close to". I even resorted to the pointing at a map tactic, but to no avail.
So I boarded the bus and hoped for the best. The air conditioning on the bus was turned up, past the ridiculously cold point, everyone on board looked freezing. For some reason the driver couldn't do anything about it, something trivial about making the windows impossible to see through.
We surged on through the night, I was regretting wearing shorts, but had my silk liner in my pack, so I crawled into that. However it is the flimsiest piece of material, I pulled my hood over my head and then snuggled into the liner and wrapped the top piece under my hood. My view was, I imagine the same as Micheal Jackson's children.
We made a couple of stops on route and then at 6am, we let some passengers off. I decided now was the time to ask the driver again, where would I be dropped in Penang. This time his reply was different, "Quick you get off bus". I looked at him incredulously, no one had mentioned the need to change buses. I was escorted with my bags to a bus waiting behind us.
For some reason I ended up sitting next to the driver, in his cab, on what can only be described as a piece of garden furniture. The driver was very chatty, although it took me several minutes to realise he was speaking English. I asked him "Am I going to Georgetown?" The reply "No", why would this bus be going to Georgetown, it is after all only the main city on Penang?
However the driver told me he'd drop me at the bus station just out of town (as it turned out along with the rest of the passengers) and tell me where to get a local bus into the centre. He told me taxi drivers would rip me off, he then used the international sign of a throat being slit. Reassuring.
The local bus driver thankfully let me on without paying as I had no small change. The sight of a chain smoking bus driver is still a shock.
I found a hotel in Chinatown and waited to check in. I then remembered something Sian had told me a few weeks earlier, about seeing loads of rats in some place in Malaysia and then finding one on her bed in the middle of the night. I suddenly realised where I was! I took a look at the guest book and sure enough saw Sian's name. Let's just say I didn't sleep much in Georgetown.

Rat Watch Room

Sights Around Georgetown

Singapore

I arrived in Singapore on Monday evening and I'm moving onto Malaysia tonight. No it's not really that bad, I just have less time left to see a lot and need to be in Ko Pha-Ngan by Sunday to meet up with friends.
Singapore is a real melting pot, for me it's the first country I've visited where I've had no idea how to identify a local. There is such a mix of ethnicity's, but somehow it works. Singapore is obviously very affluent compared to much of S.E.Asia and for me a good introduction.
I'm staying in Little India, which surprisingly is full of Indians! I've found a great restaurant, thanks to a little publication called Lonely Planet and by Singapore's standards its cheap.
Singapore is famous for it's giant, exclusive shopping malls. Yesterday I took a wander around the Orchard Road area, where most of the shops are and was surprised to find a Marks and Spencers, see Mum you could live here. I also walked to the Botanic Gardens, it isn't very far, but with the humidity was too far.

Inspiration will you wait

The transport system is really good, air-conditioned buses, air-conditioned underground system and inspiring quotes on display, what more could a public want. Oh yes that's right a mobile phone signal underground.
My bus leaves Singapore at 9pm tonight and I will arrive in Penang at 8am tomorrow morning, bright eyed and bushy tailed!

Rottnest Island

I spent my final day in Australia (typing this in Singapore) on Rottnest Island. It was amazing. The island is only 30 minutes by ferry from Fremantle, you can still see Perth's great skyline from the East side of the island, but it feels a million miles a way from everything.
There are no cars on Rottnest, so I took my friend's advice (thanks Rosie) and hired a bike. I spent the day riding around the island, stopping at different beaches for a swim. Here are a selection of photo's.

Catching up time in Perth

I arrived in Perth with a long to do list, all very dull stuff- claim tax back, get all payslips together, contact old employers, go to the dentist (oh the joys) close Australian bank account, get malaria tablets and spend some time online uploading photo's etc. Now I know most of you hold down jobs, it's not really that much to do, but amongst the usual chaos of finding accommodation, somewhere to get online, another etc, well it all took far too long. However I did manage to do some sightseeing around Perth. But more importantly I was able to meet up with some old friends. By a twist of fate, Angie an old friend from Junior school, but we'd lost touch in recent years, moved to Perth 6 weeks ago. Thanks to the wonders of Facebook, we arranged a reunion. Oddly enough another school friend, Gav, moved to Perth last November, so we were able to have a "Woodfall Juniors Reunion" in Fremantle.
As Angie hasn't started work yet (slacker) we were able to meet for lunch in the week. I got to meet Angie's son Archie (extremely cute) when the three of us had lunch at Cottesloe Beach. The beaches on the West Coast are amazing, yet so empty. I think that's the main thing I noticed in the little time I had on the West, you really do feel like you have the place to yourself.

Archie - the cutie!

Angie and Archie on Cottesloe Beach

It was great to catch up with Angie and hear about her life with Trev and Archie, I just wish we hadn't lost touch in the first place.
On Saturday night it was time for a reunion. The three of us met in Fremantle (where I was staying at this point), it's a city (in the way Australians call towns cities) about 15k from Perth with trendy shops and markets, yet it doesn't feel pretentious. Again, considering how nice it is, there really aren't many people around.
It was great to catch up with Angie and Gav and be able to talk about so long ago, yes we are THAT old!

Gav, me and Angie - Woodfall Reunion

Angie and Gav

Me and Angie a few years ago...actually at Gayle and Dave's engagement party. Check out my Ronaldo style neck!

Fraser Island - I can't always be creative with the titles

Fraser Island is the world's largest sand island, amazingly it is home to a rainforest (the only place on Earth were this ecosystem exists) and a number of beautiful freshwater lakes.
I left Tropic Days and Cairns abruptly, far more abruptly than planned. After my last shift I headed out for the night with friends I'd made at the hostel, Paul also joined us - thankfully no longer looking like Alf. I spent the following day organising myself. On Wednesday I would catch an early flight to Brisbane, then catch the skytrain from the airport to the city and then catch a bus that would take five hours to reach Hervey Bay. The latter is the starting point for most trips to Fraser Island. I was signed up for a three day, two night self drive 4wd tour. I would be put into a group of ten and we would be given a suggested itinerary, menu and camping gear. Oh and a shovel to dig ourselves out of the sand.
However Wednesday morning I was woken by Michele and Mari (staff at Tropic Days) telling me I'd overslept (it was 6.53), my 6.50am airport shuttle was waiting outside.
Mari had told me the night before she doesn't like goodbyes. I think I said my quickest goodbyes yet! I woke poor Yuka and quickly bolted for the bus, it was on the bus I finished dressing.
Some hours later, after a much delayed bus journey I arrived at Hervey Bay after ten at night, exhausted but excited by what lay ahead.
Thirty people were signed up for the tour, not everyone could drive, but drivers were assigned to groups randomly. My group of ten had 4 drivers, me included.
We were all shown a DVD to advise us how to stay safe on the island. Fraser has a very delicate ecosystem and the narrative advised minimising our footprint. The DVD also had a comical section on how to deal with dingo's. Fraser Island has the purest dingo's in Australia. The wild dogs have been known to attack children and even adults. The DVD suggested never walking alone on the island and for some strange reason if you see a dingo cross your arms over your chest and walk backwards. The virtues of this move were never explained but kept us all entertained.
I immediately recognised two people in my group as previous guests of Tropic Days. I had driven Bastiun and Tina, a German couple, on many occasions. It was great to see some familiar faces and the chance to catch up.
I soon learned that Ben and Sam (brothers) in my group are from Bebington, about 5 miles from my hometown and Sam is actually friends with my cousin Alan. Small world hey?
We collected our 4wd (Toyota, Harry) and headed to the supermarket for supplies. Afterwards we drove to the ferry and set sail on a 40 minute journey to Fraser Island. I've had some pretty poor weather by Australian standards, while I've been here, but my time on Fraser was blessed with only blue skies.
After letting down our tires a little, for driving on the sand, we followed the suggested itinerary and headed to Lake Wabby.

Lake Wabby

Taking in the view

First group photo...

I think the photographs speak for themselves. It was wonderful to swim in the cool freshwater of Lake Wabby, although we were all a little spooked by the depth of the water.
We set up camp alongside the other groups on the island's Eastern beach, under an amazingly clear sky, with the Southern Cross blazing above.

First night's camp

The second day involved beach driving (we had the tide times on our itinerary) and stops at Eli Creek (unbelievably clear water), the Maheno shipwreck, Champagne Pools and the vantage point of Indian Head.

Beach driving

Another group shot at the Maheno shipwreck

My feet in the clear water of Eli Creek

Tina, Vicky and Bonny

Ellie, Kate and Ben

A bumpy ride!

For our second night we once again camped at the beach, there were so many groups about it turned into one huge beach party.

I don't think dancing on the roof was covered in our jeep insurance policy...


We got some advice for our last day and decided to visit Lake Birrabeen as well as the famous Lake McKenzie.
A trip to Fraser Island is largely about swimming as often as possible, the water is absolutely amazing. Thanks to climate change the planet is obviously changing drastically, but Fraser Island, with it's clear waters is awe inspiring, I hope it remains this way.

White sands of Lake Birrabeen

Dingo at Lake McKenzie

A note on driving, this was my first time driving a four wheel drive, and although the clutch was heavy, it was a lot of fun. It was great to drive on sand tracks that are constantly changing. I had a "Goonies" moment driving along the beach, although having to keep an eye out for airplanes taking off and landing as the beach is also a runway was stressful!
We left Fraser feeling exhausted and very dirty (no showers for 3 days!), but having had a brilliant time. Fraser Island, another highlight to my time in Australia.

The journey back to the mainland

Photographs from the Tablelands

The Tablelands is an area inland from Cairns, that actually resembles England's green countryside. Thanks to Tropic Days I did a one day tour, that took in a 500 year old fig tree, crater lakes and many beautiful waterfalls, the most famous being Mirra, Mirra Falls. This is famous for being the location of Peter Andre's Mysterious Girl video and the Timotei shampoo advert. You know the one, were the woman with long blond hair flicks her mane creating a perfect circular spray in front of an amazing waterfall. Something like this.

Okay nothing like this, but it was worth a try.


Cathedral Fig Tree

Photographs from Cape Tribulation

Cruise on the Daintree

I was able to get two days off together at the start of my time at Tropic Days. This gave me the opportunity to do an overnight trip to Cape Tribulation. Cape Tribulation is where Rainforest meets reef, about 2 hours drive north of Cairns. The trip included a boat ride to spot crocodiles on the Daintree River and a swim at Mossman Gorge.

Aboriginals used to bury their dead inside these trees, this was until Captain Cook and his men cut one down to use the wood to repair a boat. Gaz - this has to work it's way into a script, if anyone can do it....


Croc in the Daintree

I met some great people on the tour and we went out for a few drinks in the evening. Our hostel was quite far from the "action", now I say "action", it was a bar and four middle aged men playing Fleetwood Mac covers. The tide was in so the walk back to the hostel meant walking on the road, traffic isn't a problem. However wildlife is, I was particularly concerned about seeing a Cassowary. They are incredibly rare and most people look forward to seeing one, but I had no wish to encounter a 6ft chicken on a dark road.
I had my torch in hand and was busily chatting away, when the guys walking behind us yelled out. It appears we had walked over a 2 metre long snake.

I took this photo from a safe distance and then ran, although it's hard to make out what type of snake it is.


Tribulation beach, a short walk from the hostel.


At Alexanders Point


On the drive home we stopped at Port Douglas

Your Very Own Jacques Cousteau

"What do you mean I missed the briefing? I was sitting out on the deck the whole time."
I don't know how but I missed the intro dive briefing. Let me wind this back a moment. Thanks to Tropic Days I had a free trip to the Great Barrier Reef, with the tour company Passions of Paradise. Personally I think any tour with a name as wonderful sounding as Passions of Paradise doesn't need marketing, it should sell itself.
I wanted to do a dive as much as an Islamic extremist wants a McDonald's franchise. But it was free. I felt I HAD to do it, forget the feelings of claustrophobia, the fear of open water and generally being a poor swimmer, I knew if I didn't dive today I never would.
Thankfully after some sympathetic and not so sympathetic looks from the crew they agreed I could do a dive, if I went into the group for the "nervous" folk. Are you kidding I was made for the nervous group.
We approached our first stop, Michaelmas Cay. I joined the "nervous" folk at the back of the catamaran and we were each assigned a tank and actually I've just realised I have no idea what any of the kit is called. You see the briefing wasn't really a briefing at all, as everyone else knew what to do. The weight of the tank and "stuff" is incredible, when I first tried to stand, with flippers and a face mask, it was a tremendous effort not to fall back into my seat.
I made the most ungracious exit from the catamaran, kind of sliding off into the sea, all the while trying to cling onto a rope at the back of the catamaran.
Eventually having the courage to put my head under the water, I felt like Roger Moore in that Bond movie where he's chased by Jaws underwater. The sound of my own breathing filled my ears, I felt like I was watching a movie as a turtle swam by. In the "nervous" group, we stuck together with our own personal dive master, a guy I kid you not looked like a pirate, with a bald head and earring, he was just missing an eye patch.
Once I got used to the strange sensation of being able to breathe underwater, I had an awesome time. I'd heard from many guests, disappointed stories of how the coral is dull and nothing like photographs. This might be so (it has been damaged by pollution), but for me it was still incredible, but then it was a whole new experience.


Like I need the sign to make me look dumb...

Looking ridiculous, but I need photographic proof, of the dive, not me looking ridiculous

We went to about 10 meters depth, not far I know but for us nervous folk a great distance. I shivered from the cold and a little adrenaline I think. We saw all kinds of fish and turtles and of course coral.

I returned to the surface, giddy with delight. I invested in the "official" photographs, here are some of my favourites.

Michealmas Cay, our first dive spot.




It was one of my highlights of my time in Australia, a brilliant day.

Tropic Days Backpackers

Behind the wheel

Before entering Tropic Days, please shave your head and if a smoker, quit now. Simple requests I know, but for some reason people just didn't want to comply. So a large amount of my time working as the cleaner/driver for Tropic Days was spent cleaning the hostel(people shed way too much hair in the tropics) and cleaning ash trays. The rest of the time I was collecting people from the airport and trying to memorise guests names. For example,
Frank - "What should I do while I'm in Cairns"
Me - "Sorry I can't answer you, I'm trying to memorise your name, Morris."
Kathy the co-owner of the hostel is a little OCD when it comes to cleaning. Tropic Days is the cleanest hostel I've ever seen. There is a rigorous cleaning routine to follow and Monday and Thursdays are bleach days, yes I know Mother you're thinking "Isn't EVERYDAY a bleach day?" But apparently not.
Although this created a wonderful environment for guests, even those smokers busy shedding hair, it meant come the end of the main clean on bleach day, myself and the other cleaners would stumble with streaming eyes about the hostel.
Tropic Days can only accommodate around 40 guests and for me this was a great number, it gave me a chance to know most people, after all I was working 6 days a week, 15 hours a day, so very likely to either be collecting new guests from the airport, train station or bus depot, and/or giving them a tour of the hostel. I loved getting passed the stage of "how long are you in Cairns for" and actually getting to know people. Although on particularly tiring days I would find it tedious to talk of Australia, I wanted to say "let's talk about pygmies", actually anything but Australia.

With one of my favourite guests, Kaz.

When the hostel had available beds (often in the low season) I would have to meet the buses arriving in town and try to "tout". I learned quickly that shouting "anyone need a bed for the night", would produce startled expressions and was better suited to Kings Cross. I went for the "Anyone need accommodation?" angle, sometimes with good results, but the majority of travellers book ahead. Much of my time was spent in the minivan waiting for the bus to arrive, reading and trying to stay awake.

Dan, me and Yuka wait for the Premier bus

Even having a floating light in front of me, didn't help me sell any beds...

With Yuka and Nicole

A perk of my job, was free meals at the Woolshed, one week I had fish and chips five times! It was great. I also got free soft drinks and 50% off alcoholic drinks, but never had the time to make the most of this. On my day off I was able to go on excursions for free. It's an agreement most hostels have with local tour operators. The theory is I would recommend particular tours to guests.

Stopping for a photo opportunity

The pool at Tropic Days

This was a typical day, you can see why I've fallen behind on posting.

7am - Open up the hostel, open doors, clean bathrooms and kitchens, etc.
7.30am - Drive guests to the reef terminal.
7.40am - 10am - Start stripping vacated beds, put first laundry load on. Pick up any scheduled arrivals from the airport. Get any empty rooms cleaned and ready for new guests.
10am - Cleaners start work until midday. Strip more beds, get rooms ready and then start clean of communal areas. At 10.30 drive guests to town. Possibility of airport pick-ups.
12pm - Time for the quickest shower in the world!
12.15pm - Drive to town
1.10pm - If beds available (quite often) meet Greyhound bus and tout beds to backpackers.
Free until 3.30pm unless airport pick-up scheduled.
3.30pm - Drive to town, on return to Tropic Days, do afternoon open, same as morning open.
4pm - Collect laundry from lines (if not raining), begin folding and putting laundry away.
5.20pm - Meet Greyhound bus (if beds available) and tout!
6.15pm - Drive to town, if no guests returning go to Woolshed for tea.
7.20pm - Meet Premier bus and tout beds.
8pm - Return guests from town to hostel.
9.30pm - Return guests from town to hostel, do close down, quick clean of bathrooms and kitchens, turn off lights etc.
10pm - Official end of working day.

I would try to take a power nap if there was time in the afternoon. I found 20 minutes was the optimum time, any longer and I just couldn't wake up again! I relied heavily on Pepsi Max to keep me going.
Although I was tired much of the time, I loved Tropic Days, I think it's the nicest hostel I've seen in Australia. The owners Kathy from Belfast, and her husband Gabe (a typical Australian in that he grew up in New Zealand and India) met while travelling and opened Tropic Days ten years or so ago. They have a second hostel, Travellers Oasis and I was lucky enough to know the staff at both hostels.
They have employed a long line of backpackers in the role of driver, most people stay for a few months, before travelling more or returning home. Gabe advised me early on to try and enjoy the job as much as possible.
I lived in the staff dorm room, with some great people. Yuka (Japan) was a constant, while other faces changed, Steph (Germany), Noa (Germany), Nicole (Sweden), Melanie (Swiss), Lucy (Swiss) and my replacement Mari (US). We got on really well and I was very sad to leave. Before I left Yuka told me about her first impressions of me, apparently "You are so tiny and have a really small head"! Always able to make me laugh, it was also great to have a rant to one another when things weren't going so well.
I'm now in Perth and it's strange to just be "another backpacker", I loved having a base for a while and although it's great to be travelling again, I was sorry to say goodbye.