Ecuador

I arrived in Quito on Monday, the flight from Costa Rica was thankfully none eventful. Although there was a small earthquake before I left San Jose.
Quito is a beautiful city. All the streets are extremely steep and the city is surrounded by looming mountains and volcanoes. There are many beautiful squares and colonial buildings. I´m really glad I´m staying in the Old Town, as it is full of character and beautiful, if exhausting walks.
I have felt a little sick and tired due to the altitude, so I haven´t done many trips from Quito. Luckily where I´m staying there is plenty going on, I have just watched a typical Ecuadorian band play on the terrace.
Today I did manage a trip out to the center of the world, the equator line. Thanks to the French the monument is in the wrong place! However this did not stop me having a cheesy photo, half in the Northern hemisphere and half in the Southern. There is a museum on the real equator line (some 400 metres away from the "faux" line) where you can do all little experiments, like balancing an egg on a nail and watching water fall vertically on the equator line. I also went to a really small museum, where a very passionate man told me how the pre-Inca monument is on the actual point that marks the center of the earth. This monument was only discovered 9 years ago, but the government does little to preserve or fund research on the site. I have added some photo´s to my flickr account, but I´m feeling too lazy right now to post them here.
I´ve signed up for a 2 hours Spanish class in the morning, then it´s onto Baños a resort town with lots of activities. I´ll post again soon, hopefully with photo´s.

Onward and Upward

It's 5.35am here in San Jose and I'm waiting at my hostel for my 6am pickup for the airport. This is were I'm headed to next.

Miguelito

My 4th walk at La Tortuga Feliz to patrol the beach was with a really friendly guide called Miguelito. Okay if you know a little Spanish, I´m about to state the obvious. One of the guides had cancelled so the 8 and 9pm walks were combined.
Miguelito is a very cute old man, I think he's 64. He's about 4ft 10 and looks alittle like Yoda. That's Miguelito on the right.



We set off into the very dark night, with no stars to light the way. It had rained for a few days and the heavy clouds overhead looked ominous. The first week at La Tortuga Feliz was idylic weather, so it was quite a shock when the rains came. The only advantage of heavy rain, is a nice stolid beach to walk on.
To begin with I walked directly behind Miguelito, it's always best to walk in a line so you are sure the path in front is clear. I´m use to being smaller than the guides, so I can follow the sillouette of their heads on the horizon. But with Miguelito this was hard to do. We all stumbled about quite abit, but then Miguelito took a heavy fall, and then another and a third. I was really worried he break a hip or something, but he picked himself up and cursed alittle. I should mention here, Miguelito can't see very well, I think he may have cataracts on his eyes. It wasn't a good night for Miguelito.
We took our first break an hour later, but when we started to walk on Miguelito realised he'd left his flashlight on the ground, so he had to walk back. Often we got soaked by waves, stretches of the beach are narrow and it's hard to avoid the water.
What else could we want on this delightful night, yes that´s right, heavy rain. I was thankful for my Gortex jacket (thanks Mum and Dad), but my trousers were soaking. No one cared about the turtles at this point we just wanted to be indoors. Although the thought of a cold shower back at the project didn't help. Although after awhile I found the water was so cold, I started to think it was warm. That is until I realised I was just that cold!
We continued walking and falling in equal measures. At one point Miguelito stopped to throw away his shoes, as they had broken. He walked the rest of the way in sodden bright orange socks. It's surprising how much orange clothing exists on the island. I can only assume they are Paul's cast-offs. Although nothing can fit as Paul is at least 6ft 6.
Finally after four hard hours we arrived back at base.


waiting for the new arrivals


the new arrivals

Unfortunately after six 4 hour walks I didn't get to see one measly Turtle. But I still had a great experience at the project. It certainly takes a while to get used to living without electricity and hot water. I really missed being able to keep in touch with family and friends. I've overloaded on news today, I'm all up to date on Britney's breakdown.

The experience was certainly enriched by the people I met. Some had great advice for my trip to South Anmerica. While at times it was just nice to chat and hear opinions from different perspectives. It has been a fairly laidback 2 weeks, I'm now looking forward to the excitement of travel.

Back to civilization

Ah how I've missed light switches and the internet. Oh and of course my family and friends! But seriously, I have a new found respect for electricity, well at least for a few more hours. So let me tell you about the last few weeks. I apologise in advance if this turns out to be a very long post, but it's been 2 weeks!
My adventure at Tortuga Feliz began at the Los Cabinas bus terminal in San Jose. I had my ticket for Bataan and was waiting for my bus to start boarding. I thought there might be another volunteer taking the same bus, so I was checking out my fellow passengers. The reservation is owned by a Dutch man and at least 40% of the volunteers are from Holland (actually that isn't a fact, per se, I just made it up, but I think that's about right), so when I spotted Sjenieka a young woman of 6ft I thought "aha a fellow volunteer". Before I could walk over and jump up and down (so she'd look down) a very tall man approached Sjenieka. My initial thought, Dutch Crack Addict. Meet the Turtle reservation founder and all round nice guy Paul. I guess sometimes I can be a little fast to judge. Later I would find out why Paul looked so rough.
It was great to be accompanied on the journey from San Jose to Bataan. Sjenieka and I were able to chat and not worry about going past our stop, as Paul has made the journey hundreds of times. Paul normally meets volunteers in Bataan, but he'd had to go to San Jose for business, lucky us.
We arrived in Bataan some two and a half hours later. First thoughts, it's hot. I mean tropical heat. The sun seemed to glare off every surface and right into my eyes. Bataan is a small service town, surrounded by huge bannana plantations. You can buy pretty much anything you need in Bataan.


Bataan.

We met 3 volunteers from the project, they had come to Bataan to do the food shopping for the project. Sjenieka and I picked up some provisions for the week, by provisions I mean biscuits and lots of them. Paul said we'd understand once we'd completed our first shift patrolling the beach.
We took a 4 x 4 taxi some 20 minutes into plantation land to a small jetty. There we loaded the boat with shopping and our backpacks and made our way to the project. The reservation lies on a small island nestled between a canal, the mouth of a river and the Carribean. Paul suggested we look out for crocodiles on the journey, no he wasn't joking. The journey reminded me of the film (and book) The Mosquito Coast. I just hoped the ending would be a happier one. A delightful 30 minutes later we arrived at the island, as is customary the other volunteers came to greet us.



It felt a little like arriving on a reality tv "island", you know the type, annoying bunch of people given tasks for the public's entertainment. I just hoped no one was going to break into song, on the off chance a record producer is watching. Anyway back to reality.
Everyone at the project was very friendly. There were some more Dutch volunteers, but also 2 English girls, Canadians, an Australian, Kiwi, Swiss, German, Polish, Austrian and American.


Some of the gang.

The project has been in operation for 3 years. It all began when Paul arrived on the island to watch Leatherback turtles make the amazing journey up the beach to lay their eggs. The Leatherback is the size of a VW Beetle and returns to the spot were she was born to dig a nest in the sand for her eggs. This is amazing when you consider she roams all over the world and some 14 years later finds the exact same beach where she began her journey. It's a tremendous effort for a Leatherback to make it up the beach, although graceful in the sea, they are cumbersome and make loud sighing noises once they reach the sand. Leatherbacks lay around 120 eggs, including small infertile eggs they place on top of the fertile eggs. This is in case a predator (maybe a crab) finds the nest and feasts on the eggs. Hopefully the predator will be filled by the infertile eggs, leaving the fertile eggs to develop. With huge flippers the Leatherback is surprisingly dexterous and can build nests with a narrow passage leading to a large chamber.



The whole process of dragging herself up the beach, building a nest, laying her eggs and returning to the sea takes about 20 minutes.
This is were the volunteers at Tortuga Feliz help. The turtle eggs fetch a high price. When Paul arrived on the island he witnessed poachers stealing the eggs (even though it is illegal) and even had to watch (Gayle don't read this aloud to Harry and Emily) a green turtle being slaughtered for it's meat. Some poachers were ashamed but after a bad crop, had little choice if they wanted to provide for their famillies. Paul realised he could try to protect the turtles (he would walk the beach himself each night) but really he had to help the locals if he was to really tackle the problem. At Tortuga Feliz, Paul trains locals to become guides. Each night, every hour between 7 and midnight a guide patrols the beach with 2 volunteers. There is an unwritten rule, whoever sees the turtle first, guide/volunteer or poacher claims the nest. This is obviously very frustrating, but it does keep those on the side of the law out of danger. When there are eggs, volunteers must move the eggs from the nest and re-bury them in the hatchery were they can be guarded 24/7. They must be re-buried in under 2 hours, for the turles to survive. As the beach patrolled is 10K's it can be quite an effort to get the eggs back to the hatchery in time. The project supports itself by charging volunteers $12 a day, this includes food and shelter. But it also pays for the guides, a gardener and Blanca the cook.
The success rate for turtles at the project is fantastic. The success rate in the wild is 40%. When you consider Leatherbacks are endangered, and only 40% of all eggs laid make it, the future looks bleak. Thankfully the success rate is higher at the project, as the eggs are moved to a protected area, where it is difficult for crabs and other predators to eat the eggs. The project has the highest success rate of all the reservations in the area. This is because volunteers must wear surgical gloves to move the eggs, otherwise the oil on our skin could damage the delicate egg. Nests are also built exactly as a turtle builds her nest, each pack the guide carries holds a tape measure. No white flashlights are allowed on the beach, Leatherbacks are very sensitive if they see a light on a beach they will think they haven't returned to the right beach because there wasn't a light last time. No volunteers can wear perfume or insect repellent as this can also confuse the turtles.

After introducing us to the project Paul gave us a few warnings about our surroundings. He reminded us "this is the jungle", there are scorpions, snakes, crocodiles, spiders and much more besides. He stressed we must always check our bedding at night for Scorpions, but not to worry if we are bitten as they aren't deadly... Of course we could only check our bedding with a flashlight as there are only two lights at the project, one outside the kitchen and one in the communal (hammock) area run by solar panels. I started to wonder what I'd got myself into! We were also warned not to swim in the sea. No problem for me, even though I can swim I really, really hate looking out to sea or entering water I can't see into. Okay maybe now isn't the time for me to describe my fears. There are riptides and even if you make it past them, there are bulsharks waiting for you.

Before arriving at the project I'd imagined patrolling the beach at night, I'd also imagined finding eggs, watching turtles, gauarding eggs and releasing hatchlings into the sea. Yes I completely forgot that nature doesn't work like MTV. I expected movie light for my first walk. By that I mean that annoying habit in films to show night with a 200 watt bulb, supposedly the moon. I was in for a big shock.

My first walk was with a young guide called Llucer and a friendly American girl, Kelly. We left the light of the project at 7pm and by 7.01 I believe I'd fallen over twice. I couldn't believe I was meant to walk in the pitch black with no light. I stumbled onto the beach and decided I'd likely fall over a Leatherback than see it. Eventually I learned to keep Llucer's head on the horizon so I could just about make him out. It's important to always walk behind the guide, the beach often has a lot of driftwood and general debris from the sea, in theory the path the guide takes should be clear.



I really struggled on the first walk, not so much with the distance, although the sand really works the calf muscles, but rather staying upright. Often a rogue wave will soak the walkers and if you try to run from it, you usually hit a sand bank. We made a few stops for biscuits on each walk, the guide always uses his red flashlight before we sit on some driftwood. This is to check for crocodiles. It's strange what you get used to, checking my bed and clothes for Scorpions became second nature. But I've no idea what I would have done if one had appeared under the beam of my flashlight.



On my second day at the project, someone asked Paul why he had such a bad limp. 18 months ago Paul had an accident at the project, he didn't go into details, but he had a wound and needed medical attention. While he was in hospital in San Jose he caught some kind of infection. The only way to remove the infection was to amputate part of his leg. The doctors had to amputate 5 times before they stopped the infection. Paul describes this as "just very bad luck". He uses a prosthetic leg, but this seems to give him a lot of trouble. It's very sad when you consider Paul can no longer patrol the beach, he cares so passionately about. Paul has had a huge impact on the island and really made life better for many people and of course the Leatherback and Green turtles. Paul hopes to hand over the reigns of the project to the locals soon. All decisions are made by commitee and everyone turns up to the meetings, young and old. The role of guide is held in high esteem. Some of the guides have a certain swagger to their step and rightly so, they do an important job.



Besides the patrol shift, we also had to guard the hatchery. I had to do this the first night I arrived and wondered what I'd gotten myself into. We had no eggs at the time, but turtles were due any day, so someone had to be at the hatchery in case other volunteers found some eggs. My first shift was between 6 and 10pm, without company. I couldn't use my flashlight and could only allow my imagination to run riot. Thankfully I found listening to music helped. My next shift at the hatchery was between 2-6am, but for the later shifts two volunteers sit together.


I took this photo at the start of my shift at the hatchery.

Update

On Friday night the Dominguez family took me out to a local restaurant/bar for my final night with them. They even gave me a present, a beautiful sarong. I think they must have noticed I don't have that many clothes! (But Gaz I do have more than one t-shirt, honest).
After giving me the present, we all piled into a taxi, well if you can call it that. I think it's a family friend, with a Duke´s of Hazzard style car. It was cool. Marta told the taxi driver he was going the wrong way (sound familiar Mum?) and directed him in a massive circle. But eventually we made it. The place was packed, everyone was watching Costa Rica play Guatemala. It was a brilliant atmosphere, thanks to a 3-1 victory.
After the match finished the lights were lowered and a band performed Salsa, Merenga type music. It was so different to watching a match in a pub in England, I just can't see everyone doing the tango after a win. Well at the moment I can't imagine a win, but anyway less of that.
It was really sad to say goodbye on Saturday morning. Marta gave me a list of phone numbers in case I have any problems. I think I have the phone numbers for most medical facilities in the country. I will definitely keep in touch with the family.
I´m now back were I started this trip on the 17th January, at the Costa Rican Backpackers hostel in central San Jose. There are a lot more English here this time, but I'm trying to keep talking Spanish, whether people understand me or not!
Last night we were all entertained by a drum band from El Salvador, while the Guatemalan guy (who's been stuck here for 2 months as his passport was stolen), danced with fire. I would like to post some photo's, but for some reason the computer doesn't like my camera.
Tomorrow morning I set out early for the turtle reservation. I don't expect to be online for the next 2 weeks. So I imagine my next post will be from Quito around 26th/27th February. Take care all.

Last Day Photo

Those graduating today made short speeches. We each received a certificate and encouraging words from our teachers.

Last Day at School

I have to admit I feel a little sad to leave COSI. I´ve made some great friends and have really enjoyed my time learning Spanish. I feel I have a good foundation in the language and hopefully won´t be too stressed travelling around South America.
I´m glad I opted to stay with a family, I feel it has improved my understanding of Spanish. Everyday at breakfast Marta converses with me, whether I have a blank expression or not.
Costa Ricans are genuinely welcoming and a little intrigued by other cultures. It´s a good thing, as they have a beautiful country and plenty of tourists.
I´m staying at the same hostel this weekend as when I first arrived in San Jose. I intend to take it easy and pick up a few provisions for the trip to Limon. My work at the turtle reservation begins on Monday. You can check it out here.

Luiz´s amazing origami!

Luiz has been creating these little gems since childhood. He´s never read a book on the subject and just creates as he goes along. Last night he made me a rose and a bull, I´m not sure what to make of that!

My weekend

On Friday as soon as my class finished at 11am I took a taxi to downtown (I´m sorry I´m hanging around too many Americans) San Jose and bought a bus ticket for Montezuma. Actually it took 3 buses and 1 ferry to reach the beach resort of Montezuma, but it was well worth the hassle. Transport in Costa Rica is amazingly cheap, this 5 hour journey cost under 4 pounds. As soon as a reached the port of Puteranas (some 2 hours from San Jose) I realised I was in a new region. San Jose is nestled in the Central Valley. Now I can make the only connection I can think of between San Jose and the Wirral, neither have extremes in weather, ah those mountains or hills...
Anyway I made my way to the ferry terminal in Puteranas and proceeded to melt under the heat. The ferry terminal was really confusing, but evetually I had a ticket to board the Tambor II, I tried not to think of the fate of the first Tambor.
Harry I´ve added a photo above of all the cars driving onto the ferry. Once I´d counted past 50 I decided it best to look away.
After 2 more buses I arrived in Montezuma. Montezuma is described as a cheap hippie beach resort in every guide book I´ve come across. Obviously hippies have changed, for one the "Montezuma hippie" wears Raybans, they also drive quadbikes along the beach (more Ozzy Osbourne than Joan Baez), but like all good hippies they like a good bannana and bran muffin for breakfast.
I stayed at a beautiful hotel, I opted for a dorm for 5 pounds for 2 nights. Most of the hotel was double and single cabinas, there were only two dorm rooms. The dorms had a huge verandah. But the coolest thing about the hotel were the monkeys. They were everywhere, Kev you would hate it!
For me that is the best thing about Montezuma, yes there is a great beach (and I took my first dip in the Pacific), but the wildlife is amazing. Parrots, iguanas, Costa Rican squirrels (red with black stripes), monkeys and many things I sadly can´t name.
A cool weekend.

Okay for some reason Blogger won´t let me post photo´s. I will try in a separate post. But if it doesn´t work I´ll add them to my Flickr account.

Volcan Poas - wow

Well another day, another Volcano! After class I took a minibus with one other student (a really annoying English woman who insisted speaking English to the guide who spoke no English) to the nearby extinct volcano, Poas. Everyone I´ve spoken to about this volcano has said, "didn´t see anything". It´s a notoriously cloudy spot and the best time to go is very early, about 6am early. So we rolled up at 2pm...
We were extremely lucky, not only were the views amazing but the park was nearly empty as everyone visits in the morning.
We took some photo´s, smelt the sulphur and wandered on to a laguna made when an extinct volcano sealed over and formed from rainwater. Another great day.