New Orleans

It was with some trepidation I decided to include New Orleans on this trip, but I'm so glad I did.
Before arriving I'd read about the French Quarter, the Garden District and the famous above ground cemetery's. My plan was to take a tour and figure things out from there. What amazed me was how much New Orleans has to offer tourists. I took a tour of the city, a trip to the swamp, a riverboat cruise on the Mississippi and watched "Hurricane on the Bayou" at the local IMAX. I really could have stayed longer.
Post Katrina most of the news out of New Orleans (at least in the UK) is the lengthy time it is taking to rebuild parts of the city. The 9th Ward is still in ruins and it must be asked if this happened in Florida would it take so long to rebuild? Seeing the terrible destruction the hurricane caused, one asks the question why rebuild? But many locals have made that decision, while others are waiting for their insurance companies to pay out before they eagerly rebuild. I guess it comes down to human nature, people rise to the challenge. New levees are being built and old ones re-enforced. Some are building higher, with homes on 10 foot stilts.




House in the French Quarter.

Out in the Swamp

From New York I took a two and a half hour flight to New Orleans. As soon as I exited the airport the heat hit me. It's extremely humid here and so far there has been no break. The infamy of the pound continues, the taxi driver who took me from Louis Armstrong International to my hotel in the French Quarter wanted to know if I had any pounds he could buy from me. It turns out the driver's wife is from Coventry and they are making a trip to the UK this summer. He told me he's heard it's not so hot in the summer, more like 70 degrees. I laughed and told him, "if your lucky". I'd been watching Henman's typically dramatic first round match on the plane, amazingly he won before we landed, but I'd noticed the crowd wrapped in their coats. Although it isn't a pleasant heat here, but then again it is the low season.
I signed up for a swamp tour in the afternoon. Considering the city is still recovering from Katrina, the tourist industry seems to be in full flow.
I was collected from my hotel and along with 10 or so other tourists (including one fellow Brit) driven out to a jetty near to a huge area of swamp land.

Boat Tour

Our guide was a Cajun who grew up in New Orleans, but would visit his grandparents regularly in the swamps. He and his sister own some 35,000 acres of swamp land, the rest belongs to the government. Apparently they have had many offers, but want to preserve and protect the area.

This tree was used in Interview with a Vampire.

A Cajun is a person of French extraction. Originally banished from France a really long time ago (okay I don't know everything) they settled in Newfoundland, until they heard of a new French community in what is now New Orleans. They made there way south, but rather than receive a warm welcome, many were slaughtered, those that escaped settled in the swamp lands. Cajun is still spoken and is now quite trendy. Although up until the 1970's Cajun's were persecuted in the US. Now however they can make good money from Hollywood studio's wanting their help to train actors in the local dialect. Our guide told us how locals with Irish ancestry where now passing themselves off as Cajun for Hollywood dollars, damn those Irish.

Our Cajun Guide, who's name escapes me.

We saw so many alligators it was really quite remarkable. The guide would feed them marshmallows, (apparently this is okay for them!) by placing them on the end of a stick. Our guide explained if he were to throw meat from the boat the alligators would assume we were meat too and try to get on board. Thankfully they never thought we were marshmallows.

I believe this is the money shot.

I can understand why so many films use the swamps as a setting, the area is very beautiful and has a mystical quality about it. It's teeming with wildlife, huge blue dragonflies kept landing on the boat and we saw about ten alligators on the two hour trip, along with many species of birds, insects and frogs. Thankfully we didn't see any snakes but the guide did warn us what do if any fall in the boat from the overhanging branches. The trees look beauiful decorated with Spanish moss.
I had packed my mosquito spray before setting out on the trip. But our guide explained mosquitoes aren't a problem out in the swamps as the water is constantly moving.


While I've been here I've learned the land New Orleans is built on was formed by the Mississippi making soil deposits. Unlike most rivers that erode land the Mississippi actually creates land. In the 1930's, canals were created through the wetlands and saltwater came into the equation. This destroyed a large portion of the wetlands and in turn reduced New Orleans natural defence from hurricanes. Also for a long time the Mississippi couldn't make soil deposits on land because of the levees. Instead the muddy waters would flow out to sea and do damage there. See this is what happens when man interferes in nature's plans!


Now the levees being created post Katrina are designed to allow the Mississippi to make her soil deposits and trees are being planted on the remaining wetlands to create stability through their roots. Although it wasn't the Mississippi levees that breached but rather those on around Lake Pontchartrain.

Melrose, MA

My late sister Gina, spent a year working as a nanny in Boston. This was around 1986, I was delighted when Gina sent me a parcel from the States. I still have the baseball mitt and practice ball, but the Reece's pieces are long since gone. However I do still like to pick up a bag whenever I can.
Gina was a nanny for two boys, one around my age at the time, 9 and a sibling about 2 years younger. Gina never really had a fondness for children (Harry being the exception, unfortunately she didn't get to know the Emily we all love) so I guess our parents were surprised with her move to Boston. I think it had a lot more to do with living somewhere new (she'd spent a year in Germany when she was 17) and generally having a good time.
We unfortunately don't have any contact details for the family she worked for during this time, but do know she worked in Melrose, just outside Boston.
I mentioned to Gerry it would be great to see Melrose and take some photographs. Ever the perfect host Gerry drove me around Melrose, before he gave me a tour of Concord.
These are some of the photo's I took of Melrose, I know Mum you've been waiting to see them.




A typical home in Melrose


Gina used to run a lot, we saw quite a few runners on the streets of Melrose.

Somerville, MA

While I was learning some Spanish in Costa Rica I was fortunate one day to begin chatting to an American, a fellow student named Gerry. Gerry is far more proficient in Spanish and was spending time in Costa Rica to improve further.
We became friends during those morning breaks and I was always frustrated when the bell rang for us to return to our classrooms. It felt especially odd for both of us to be returning to the classroom, especially Gerry a retired English teacher.
I told Gerry of my travel plans and without hesitation he invited me to his home in Boston.

Gerry and I
Last Thursday I set off via Greyhound from New York. This was after my hand luggage had been checked for bombs, apparently it's okay to carry them in large luggage to be stowed in the hold.
Gerry kindly met me at the bus terminal and we took the "T" (the local metro train) to Somerville where Gerry lives with his husband Steve.
Gerry and Steve made me feel so welcome in their home I was sorry to leave. As the perfect hosts they had bought tickets for the Duck tour of Boston the next day and also tickets for the Boston Pops, similar to the Proms.
Gerry, with a wonderful knowledge of history gave me a tour before we made it to the start of the Duck tour.
The Boston Duck tours take tourists (and locals) on WWII land and sea transporters, around the famous and historical sites and into the harbour. Gerry was very apprehensive about the tour, and apologised in advance in case it was all a bit awful. Well his doubts were squashed. I assume the tour guide has a usual spiel for the tourists, but our guide (AKA Captain Duke Tape) was completely natural, informative and most importantly funny. Thankfully he kept adults and children entertained alike. After some Yankee bashing (the Boston Red Sox and the New York Yankees have the biggest rivalry in Baseball, think Burnley/Blackburn) the tour naturally turned it's attention to the English.

Reflected Duck
If only the good people of Boston had continued to pay their taxes to the Queen, but oh no they got ahead of themselves. Capt. Duck Tape asked if anyone was English on board, stupidly I raised my hand. When he didn't notice me, I started waving my hands in front of Gerry to get the Captain's attention. The whole time thinking, I really shouldn't do this, hey here I am, this is a really bad idea.
From then on, every time the Captain pronounced anything with an "R" in it, in his thick Bostonian accent, he asked me to say it in my English accent. When he pointed out the British lions and unicorn that had been smashed to pieces by the locals, upon defeat of the British, he got everyone on the Duck to repeat loudly, "smashed to pieces".
Although it sounds like a disaster it was all done in good humour and the guide was genuinely funny. It was a great way to see Boston.
On Saturday night Gerry and I went to see the Boston Pops. This particular night was part of "Edgefest". The evening is used to draw in a new audience. The symphony orchestra opened with a piece from West Side Story. After that they performed two new pieces by young composers. I particularly enjoyed this section, in the beautiful, but intimate hall I found my mind happily wandering with the music.
The next segment was probably the least successful. The Orchestra where joined on stage by The Cowboy Junkies, Gerry pointed out how could they be at the "edge" after 20 plus years touring. The band performs mostly slow and depressing songs, which is fine we all need to hear that occasionally, but having the orchestra join in on a few songs didn't lift the content all that much. It's a shame I believe if they had approached most new bands breaking into the scene, they could have produced something quite inspiring and fresh. On my way back to New York the following day I happened to be in the same bus queue as Niko Muhly, one of the new composers from the night before. I was all ready to tell him how much I enjoyed his music when he got the last seat on the bus before mine!

From JFK

I'm catching a flight this morning to New Orleans. I'm using the airline JetBlue, so far the only good thing about the airline is the free wifi hotspot in the departure lounge. The queue through security was almost as long as the queue for Dunkin' Donuts.
I'm told no one visits New Orleans this time of year, it's very hot, humid and stormy. But I'm taking advantage of low season and have booked a hotel. This is where I will be staying.
I really have a lot more to post about from the past week, in particular my great stay in Boston with Gerry and Steve. But right now I have a flight to catch, I feel so international, well apart from the jam donut stain on my top....

Brooklyn

Brooklyn Bridge



Manhattan from the Brooklyn Bridge



Brooklyn Bridge


I had a few more days in New York once my Mum set off back to the UK. I decided rather than to go to alot of museums and galleries, I'd do a walking tour of Brooklyn. Yes it's free too!
The Brooklyn bridge has a pedestrian path running over the cars. It takes about 20 minutes to walk across. Taking a right off the bridge leads you to the Brooklyn Heights area. This is were the Huxtables lived in the Cosby Show, no it wasn't a studio it was right next to Seseme Street in Brooklyn Heights.
It was a beautiful day and I took my time taking lots of photo's. I stopped at homes of Truman Capote and W.H Auden to take photo's and wandered the aisles of the Heights Bookstore. I was able to resisit any new purchases, I'm already humping around 7 books thanks to the great second hand book stores here in New York.

Some more photo's taken in New York

Flatiron Building


John Lennon memorial at Strawberry Fields, Central Park


Statue of Liberty


I know it's out of focus, but I like it.

Tales from the City

I started this trip with a bohemian grace, a dishevelled independence, a dollop of free will and with my Mother. Yes I know hardly cool, but I invited my Mum to join me for a few days in New York. My Mum managed to get a seat next to mine on the flight from Manchester to JFK.

Me and my Mum in Central Park

It's my second trip to New York, but my Mum's first. We stayed in Midtown, near to my Mum's places of worship, Macy's, Bloomingdale's and 5th Ave.
The first time I visited New York (to celebrate the Millennium with Stu), I was amazed by the scale of the city, the simple design of the grid system, the height of the buildings and the energy of the city.

Empire State Building

After a remarkably fast flight (something to do with an unheard of tailwind) we arrived in Manhattan mid-afternoon. My Mum's first request? A cup of tea.
The next morning we took a trip to the observatory at the top of the Empire State Building. As we were queuing to enter the final elevator, a young man ushered us in front of a blue screen to have a photo taken. My Mum has a habit of talking just as the camera clicks. This time was no different, we have a great photo of my Mum mid-sentence and me, of course effortlessly posing.


Mum at the top of the Empire State Building.

The next day we decided (my Mum) to take a look in Bloomingdale's and general wander around some shops.
During the 5 days we had together we also went on the Circle Line cruise around Manhattan, this is a fascinating 3 hour tour. Tried boating in Central Park, it turns out I have an incredibly strong right arm (or should that be incredibly weak left arm) and if you ever need to row in a circle let me know. Most of the time my Mum and I were laughing too much to row. It was a beautiful day to spend in the park and we also watched a baseball match for a while.

Boating in circles.

Still going in circles...

The weather wasn't typical New York heat, but I think my Mum was grateful. Although when we decided to take a tour of Downtown on the popular Greyline, hop on, hop off open top bus the heavens opened. After some food at the South Street Seaport (a Bob the Builder concert was going on...) we were drenched waiting for a bus, thankfully we were given delightful plastic poncho's to wear.

Getting wet touring NYC

I think my Mum had a good time in New York even if in her own words, she wouldn't "live there for a big clock" and also had some trouble understanding the American accent. I put this down to not watching enough films.

Doing the tourist thing

Taken on the Circle Line

PC? Never!

I woke up today to rain, but hey at least no work to go to. I decided to buy a rain jacket as I'd clevery decided I didn't need a coat for this trip. I didn't find a coat, but did buy a new laptop (can I say new if it's refurbished?) instead.
The lack of internet cafes (all offer wifi instead) and the ridiculous cost of internet access at my hostel, that meant learning to type faster or forgetting about staying in communicado, meant buying is the best option.
I have a Mac at home, and although I have used a PC at the BBC, I always swore I would never buy a PC, but hey I can't afford the new Macbook, so hear I am with the leading brand name, Averatec... Well at least it has a one year guarantee. I'm no fool...It was strange to buy a computer and then say "no you keep the box" and stuff the laptop into my backpack.
I will now, hopefully be able to keep this site up to date and put some photo's online. Fingers crossed the Averatec doesn't get sick from all those PC virus's out there.
Stu, Lucie, Steve Jobs, please forgive me.

New York, New York

In 5 hours time I need to wake up, oh that's right go to sleep first and then wake up. My Mum and I are taking an early morning flight to JFK. Yes that's right my Mum is coming with me, she's decided to get a backpack too. No I haven't lost all street cred, my Mum is going to have a holiday in New York with me for a week. When she flies home I'll continue my travels in America. I feel completely relaxed about travelling this time around, the last 4 and a half months gave me a wealth of experience and confidence.
Unfortunately I've become a little too laid back and have found myself with many things to organise in a short space of time, hence I'm typing this after midnight.
It has been great to catch up with family and friends over the last 3 weeks, sorry to those I didn't manage to meet.
I'm amazed by how many people have been following this blog, I hope to keep updating this space regularly, although I think it will be more difficult while travelling in developed nations.
I still can't quite believe I have a whole year of travelling ahead of me. Hopefully my Mum will enjoy her trip to New York and shopping with the Mighty Pound. Here's to another great trip.