Thursday 10 May 2007

Maracana

How to feel intimidated, the answer visit the world famous Maracana stadium, Rio on Cup Final day with a large group of Gringo´s being guided by a man in a black t-shirt that reads "Don´t be a Gringo, Be a Local"!
I desperately tried to distance myself from the Australian man with a new romantics haircut, powder blue shirt, torn jeans and leather sandals. It was all in vain, as we made our way through the huge crowds of Flamengo fans to the reach the stadium gates. The chants of "Gringo" began, they said much more but it was in Portuguese. I don´t understand a word of Portuguese, apparently knowing some Spanish I should be able to, but even Rio sounds completely different. Flying from Iguasu to Rio I got into a panic when I thought I was on the wrong plane.
I had no idea if the chanting was aggressive or the more humoured variety, but I didn´t want to stick around to find out. We had about 40 minutes before kickoff, the tour company (Be a Local) had collected us hours before KO but somehow hadn´t expected all the traffic and people.
Our "guide" suggested it would be best to join the queue, well actually just push in. Of course this completely goes against my English nature, we did event the rules of queuing after all. I spent the day in the company of two English people, James (Bradford fan) and Laura (Leicester fan), we conferred about cutting in and decided to follow the "guide" and the other 30 gringo´s. As if we didn´t stand out enough we were now cutting into the line. Surprisingly jumping a queue didn´t cause any problems. Eventually we were led into the stadium (not as big as I expected) and to an area with about three free seats. Our "guide" told us to find seats and enjoy! Um yes thanks I really feel like a local now.
James, Laura and I set off to find our own seats, we got closer to the pitch, although we were out of the shade. The temperature was in the mid thirties, kickoff was set for 4pm.

We began to bake, but the atmosphere was incredible. Maybe the sale of beer helps. I´d of preferred it if people didn´´t throw their empty cans, but I didn´t mind when it was aimed at a man with a flare. The smoke was billowing across our section and it was hard to see the pitch. The kickoff was typically prompt at 4.07pm.
The Rio State final is played in two legs, Flamengo and Botofogo had drawn 2-2 in the first leg. We were in the Flamengo section, they are kind of the Man U of local football. I wanted Botofogo to win, but of course I didn´t shout about it.
Brazilian fans have a very different way of supporting their teams. They actually show support. Can you imagine? Maybe this is the secret to Brazilian football. When there keeper punched the ball TOWARDS the opposition forward there were no shouts of "Donkey", well only from James to my left. They actually applaud their players, even if they make mistakes! If the opposition scores heads are bowed in frantic prayer, but they don´t shout or berate their own players. It was strange. When the opposition has the ball they are loudly booed, but it felt more like pantomime then an English match. While booing the fans also stretch their arms in the air and rapidly dance their fingers in the air, in a kind of Deep South Gospel dance. The whole event is very religious to the fans. We were sitting behind a family with three young boys, they spent most of the match praying and making the sign of the cross over their narrow chests.

The standard of play in the first half was typical of a cup final match. But things improved in the second half. Flamengo took the lead (I became deaf for a while) and half the stadium rocked and frantically gave prayers of thanks. Within four minutes Botofogo equalised, usual Brazilian defence right? Typical Brazilian response followed, score more goals. The matched closed in normal time, 2 all thanks to some amazing goals.
There was no extra time, but the ground was set for penalties. As expected the atmosphere in the tense, the young boys were feverishly praying along with the rest of the ground. Beer was now being sold quickly, along with salty popcorn strangely enough.
With Botofogo missing their first two penalties it became clear they took penalties like the Dutch, sorry Wendy but you know what I mean. The final result was 4-2 to Flamengo and the dancing began in Brazilian style!

7 comments:

athina said...

Hey hey hey!!

I just browsed the photos in your flicker account for a bit and I'm telling you my dear, this thing you're up to really gives me butterflies!

How are you doing? (Stupid question, I know!) I'll try to email you some more soon, just don't know exactly HOW soon! Thankfully I've started swimming here, so that's something, huh?

All the love, keep enjoying!!!

Athina.

joany said...

hi not like man u

little chief said...

True Aunty Joan, Flamengo probably could beat West Ham...

xx

Athina - Why not come and join me?!
xx

Anonymous said...

Hey Karen

Ever thought of becoming a south american football corespondent ! your doing a good job so far..

As always your blog is great, the photo just keep getting better as well.
will email you very soon ,promise Although away from my computer for the next few days.

Not all of us can swan around the globe like you y'know.

only joking

take care & enjoy a Bravara for me.

Stuart
x

little chief said...

Thanks Stu, I think you'd like the fruit smoothies here, although they don't add brocolli!


Karen
x

athina said...

Man, would I like to do that!

Let's just hope that I will travel as far as the island I'm writing about and finish that damn thing. That's my greatest ambition at the moment!

A.

little chief said...

I'm sure you will Athina,

xx